I'm using 2 patterns from the bodice, the little fake cable and the twist stitch pattern, and diagonal one from the body.
Here's how I do the sleeves: pick up and knit half the underarm sts, then all around the armscye and then the other half of the underarm sts. I never bind off those underarm sts, just put them on a piece of yarn to hold them in place. I have one stitch that is center to the bottom, and that becomes my fake seam. It looks kind of squooshy here, but it's OK.