Ruth's Basic Ribby Socks
No fancy, schmancy socks for me. I'm into ribbed socks in a big way. Right now I'm into showcasing the dyeing, not the patterning, so ribs work very well for me. And, I know they fit perfectly. This is true auto-pilot knitting, perfect for TV moments. Complicated stuff gets done in the afternoon when it's quiet and no one is around to distract me.
My basic rib pattern: k5, p2. That's it. I make a 56 stitch sock, use 2 circs, and 4 repeats on each needle works perfectly.
Here's the basic pattern for you.
Ruth’s Basic Ribby Socks
Auto-pilot knitting at its best!
Size: Small, for medium – large sizes, add pattern repeats and/or use a larger needle.
Style: Cuff to toe
Gauge: 7.75 sts over stockinette
Needles: size 2.50mm (size 1.5); 2 circulars, or whatever you’re comfortable with
Yarn: 350-400 yds of sock weight yarn
Pattern repeat: 7 stitches
Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Divide your sts up as follows: 28 on needle one, and 28 on needle two.
Work pattern until leg is as long as you wish.
Heel flap is worked on 28 sts on needle two.
At the end of needle two, turn work so that the wrong side is facing you.
Row 1. Sl 1 purlwise, purl to end of row.
Row 2. *Sl I purlwise, k1*. Repeat from * to end.
Repeat these two rows until 27 rows are completed. You are now on the right side of the heel flap.
Note: Sl 1 = sl 1 purlwise
Row 1: (Right side) K 15, ssk, k1. Turn
Row 2: Sl 1, p3, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, k4, ssk, k1. Turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Row 5: Sl 1, k6, ssk, k1. Turn.
Row 6: Sl 1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Row 7: Sl 1, k8, ssk, k1. Turn.
Row 8: Sl 1, p9, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Row 9: Sl 1, k10, ssk, k1. Turn.
Row 10: Sl 1, p11, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Row 11: Sl 1, k12, ssk, k1. Turn.
Row 12: Sl 1, p13, p2tog, p1. Turn. You will have 16 sts on your needle.
Work across the heel flap sts on Needle two. With the tip of Needle two, pick up 14 sts along the side of the heel. Pick up a stitch from the row below the first instep stitch to prevent a hole: 15 stitches picked up.
Needle one: Work across the 28 instep stitches in pattern. From now on, the instep only will be worked in pattern. The sole will be worked in stockinette. You will have 28 sts on needle one and 28 sts on needle two.
With the point of needle two, pick up a stitch from the row below the first heel st to prevent a hole.
Pick up 14 sts along the right side of the heel: 15 sts picked up. Place a marker half way across the foot sts. This will help you count your decreases accurately.
Work across the foot sts and the instep sts. You are now ready to begin decreasing for the gusset.
Dec. round: At beginning of needle two (foot sts), k1, ssk, work to 3 sts before the end of needle two, k2tog, k1.
Work the instep in pattern. Do not decrease here.
Work the next round without decreases on the sole.
Continue to decrease on alternate rounds on the foot sts. Work until 28 sts on the sole remain.
Needle one: instep
Needle two: bottom of foot.
Continue working in rounds in until the sock is about 1.5 inches from the end. Decrease one stitch on instep at the end so that you have 28 sts on each needle.
Round 1: On needle one, k1, ssk, knit until 3 sts before the end of the needle, k2tog, k1. Repeat on needle two.
Work the next round plain.
Work these 2 rounds until a total of 20 sts, remain. 10 stitches on each needle.
Holding needles one and two together, graft sts on them together using the Kitchener st.
Weave in ends on inside of sock.
Work the second sock.